When it comes reading forecast graphs, swell period is definitely the magic number. Indeed, for a forecaster, explaining the implications of swell period is a bit like the birds and the bees – of ...

I’ve been forecasting waves along the Central Coast since 1991, but the recent swell event marked the longest period and wavelengths I’ve ever observed. The waves were immense and powerful, breaking ...

Waves and swell are created by wind. Around the earth, we have areas of high air pressure and areas of low air pressure in the atmosphere. Think of the air as liquid, as water. The areas of high ...